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Information about
Khajuraho |
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In
the temple architecture of India, the Khajuraho
complex remains unique. One thousand years ago, under
the generous and artistic patronage of the Chandela
Rajput kings of Central India, 85 temples, magnificent
in form and richly carved, came up on one site, near
the village of Khajuraho. The amazingly short span of
100 years, from 950 AD - 1050 AD, saw the completion
of all the temples, in an inspired burst of
creativity. Today, of the original 85, only 22 have
survived the ravages of time; these remain as a
collective paean to life, to joy and to creativity; to
the ultimate fusion of man with his creator.
Why did
the Chandelas choose Khajuraho or Khajirvahila -
garden of dates, as it was known then - as the site
for their stupendous creations? Even in those days it
was no more than a small |
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village.
It is possible given the eclectic patronage of the Chandelas
and the wide variety of beliefs represented in the
temples, that they had the concept of forming a seat
of religion and learning at Khajuraho. It is possible
that the Chandelas were also believers in the powers
of Tantrism; the cult which believes that the
gratification of earthly desires is a step closer to
the attainment of the infinite. It is certain however,
that the temples represent the expression of a highly
matured civilization. |
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Yet
another theory is that the erotica of Khajuraho,
and indeed of other temples, had a specific
purpose. In those days when boys lived in
hermitages, following the Hindu law of being "brahmacharis"
until they attained manhood, the only way they
could prepare themselves for the worldly role of
'householder' was through the study of these
sculptures and the earthly passions they
depicted.
The creators of Khajuraho claimed descent from
the moon. The legend that describes the origin
of this great dynasty is a fascinating one:
Hemavati, the beautiful young daughter of a
Brahmin priest was seduced by the moon god while
bathing in the Rati one evening. The child born
of this union between a mortal and a god was a
son, Chandravarman. Harassed by society, the
unwed mother sought refuge in the dense forest
of Central India where she was both mother and
guru to her young son. The boy grew up to found
the great Chandela dynasty. When he was
established as a ruler, he had a
dream-visitation from his mother, who implored
him to build temples that would reveal human
passions, and in doing so bring about a realization of
the emptiness of
human desire. Chandravarman began the |
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construction of the first of the temples,
successive rulers added to the fast growing
complex. |
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What to see |
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The Western
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Kandariya Mahadev
Perfectly symmetrical, it soars 31 km
high. Though the four temples that stand at the corners
of the main shrine are now in ruins, the main shrine has
an exquisitely carved entrance arch with a multitude of
themes. Celestial beings, lovers serenading musicians...
movements captured in stone, frozen in time, yet
retaining a quality of warm, pulsating life. The very
stone seems to have taken on the living, breathing
quality of the carved figures.
Beyond the archway of the Kandariya Mahadev, lie the six
interior compartments; the portico, main hall, transept,
vestibule, sanctum and ambulatory. The ceilings are
particularly noteworthy and the pillars supporting them
have intricately carved capitals. The transept's outer
walls have three horizontal
panels showing deities of the Hindu pantheon, and
groups of lovers, a pageant of sensuousness,
vibrantly alive. |
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Chaunsath Yogini
the
only granite temple in the Khajuraho group.
Dedicated to Kali, it is also unique in being
quadrangular in plan. Only 35 of the original 65
cells remain and no image of Kali has survived:
not surprisingly, since this is the earliest
surviving shrine of the group dated to 900 AD.
Chitragupta temple
Facing
eastward to the rising sun, the temple, is
dedicated to the sun-god, Surya. The image of this
powerful deity in the inner sanctum is
particularly imposing: 5ft high, and driving a
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-horsed chariot. The group scenes depicted are
equally spectacular: royal processions, elephant-fights,
hunting scenes, group dances. The lavish lifestyle of
the Chandela kings and their court is here in all its
pomp and glory. |
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Matangeswara Temple
Still a living places of worship, the
temple is dedicated to Shiva, has an eight feet high
lingam and is outside the precincts of the western
group. |
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Vishwanath Temple
Lions flank the northern steps
and elephants the southern, leading up to the
temple. Within, there is an impressive three
headed image of Brahma. The exteriors are
profusely carved. Facing the shrine is a Nandi
Temple with a massive, 6 ft high Nandi bull. Since
the first few Chandela rulers were devotees of
Vishnu, there are some important Vaishnavite
temples in the Khajuraho group.
Lakshmana Temple
The
lintel over the entrance shows the trinity of
Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, with Lakshmi, Vishnu's
consort. The sanctum is richly carved |
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and has a three-headed idol of Vishnu's
incarnations, Narsimha and Varaha. The boar incarnation
also appears in another Vaishnavite shrine, the Varaha
Temple. The statue here is a mammoth 9 ft high one, its
surface covered with figures from the Hindu Pantheon. |
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The Eastern group |
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Parswanath Temple
The largest Jain temple,
Parswanath,
is in
this group. Exquisite in detail, the sculptures on
the northern outer wall make this temple perhaps
the finest in the group. The themes of these
carvings are the timeless ones of every day,
mortal activity. A woman sits bent pensively on a
letter, a lovely young girl removes a thorn from
her foot, the master craftsmen of Khajuraho
display here their deep understanding of the
trifles that make up a human life. Within, the
sanctum has a throne, which faces a bull : emblem
of the first tirthankara, Adinath. The actual
image of Parswanath from which the temple derives
its name was installed as recently as 1860.
Ghantai Temple
the
Ghantai Temple. Though almost in ruins now, it
still bears evidence of its original splendour.
Particularly, arresting is the frieze which
depicts, in graphic detail, the 16 dreams of
Mahavira's mother and a multi-armed Jain goddess
riding on a winged Garuda. |
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Adinatha Temple
Dedicate to the Jain
saint, Adinath, the temple is lavishly
embellished with sculpted figures, including
yakshis.
The three Hindu temples in the Eastern Group
are
the Brahma,
Vamana
and
Javari Temples.
A double row of apsaras, celestial nymphs,
adorn the outer walls of the Vamana temple.
A variety of sensuous attitudes: languid,
provocative, mischievously inviting, give
credibility to the theory that Khajuraho's
erotica were meant to test the devotees who
came to worship their gods at the temples. |
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The
Southern group |
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Chaturbhuj Temple
5 km from the Khajuraho
village, lies the Southern Group of temples. The
fine
Chaturbhuj Temple
in this group has a massive intricately carved
image of Vishnu in the sanctum.
Duladeo Temple
A little away from the road to
the Jain group of temples. Though remains of
temples belonging to the Khajuraho group have been
discovered at Jatkari, 3 km away and even at
Maribag in Rewa, it is at the 3 main groups that
the imperishable glory of Khajuraho, the sensuous
celebration of life, the aspiration towards the
infinite, remains. |
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Sound and Light Show |
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This fascinating Son-et-Lumière
spectacle evokes the life and times of the
great Chandela Kings and traces the story of
the unique temples from the 10th Century to
the present day.
Mounted in the complex of
the Western Group of temples, the 50-minute
show runs in Hindi and in English every
evening. Amitabh Bachchan, the Indian super
star, narrates the story of Khajuraho in his
mesmerising voice.
Timings of Sound & Light
Show at Western group of temples
·
English: 06:30 pm to
07:25 pm.
·
Hindi: 07:40 pm to 08:35
pm.
Entry Fee :
Indian Adult:
Rs. 75/- Overseas
Adult: Rs. 300/-
Indian Child: Rs. 25/-
Overseas Child: Rs. 150/-
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State Museum of Tribal
& Folk Arts
A fine collection of
masterpieces of tribal and folk art and
artifacts from all over Madhya Pradesh is on
display at the Chandela Cultural Complex.
The tradition of tribal and folk arts and
crafts has evolved over centuries. It
represents the best of Indian culture and
tradition and its synthesis with foreign
cultures that came through trade and
invasions.
The State Museum has more
than 500 representative items of terracotta,
metal craft, woodcraft, tribal and folk
paintings, tattoos, jewellery and masks.
Timings
The Museum is open on all
days except Mondays and Government Holidays.
From 12 Noon to 8 P.M.
Entrance Fee
Indian Visitors Rs. 10/-
per head.
Overseas Visitors US $10 (or equal value in
Indian Rupees) per head. |
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Excursions |
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Dhubela
Museum
57 km.
Located on the bank of a lake, the museum houses a wide
variety of Shakti Cult sculptures. There are different
sections on garments, weapons and paintings.
Rajgarh Palace
25 km.
A picturesque 150 year old palace. Now being converted
into a heritage hotel.
Ranguan Lake
25 km.
Ideal angling and picnic spot.
Benisagar Dam
7 km.
Picnic spot.
Raneh Falls
20 km.
A beautiful picnic spot on the river Ken.
Pandav Falls
34 km.
On Panna road. A scenic spot. |
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How to Reach |
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By Air :
Khajuraho is connected to Delhi & Agra with regular flights.
By Rail : The nearest railheads are Mahoba (64 km) and Harpalpur (94
km). Jhansi (175 km) and Satna (117 km) are convenient
railheads for visitors from Delhi, Mumbai, Calcutta, Chennai,
Agra & Varanasi.
By Road : Khajuraho is connected by regular bus services with Mahoba,
Harpalpur, Satna, Jhansi, Gwalior, Agra, Jabalpur & Bhopal. |
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Best
Season |
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September to
March. |
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