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Nun Kun
About Nun Kun

The Nun Kun mountain massif comprises a pair of Himalayan peaks: Nun, 7,135 m (23,409 ft) and its neighbor peak Kun, 7,077 m (23,218 ft). Nun is the highest peak in the part of the Himalayan range lying on the Indian side of the Line of Control in Jammu and Kashmir. (There are higher peaks in the Indian part of the Karakoram range.) The massif is located near the Suru valley which is about 250 km east of Srinagar, the state capital.

Kun is located to the north of Nun and is separated from it by a snowy plateau of about 4 km in length. Pinnacle Peak, 6,930 m (22,736 ft), is the third highest summit of the group. Nun Kun is  is governed by two icy pyramid peaks, Nun and Kun. Nun is the higher of the two peaks, and is the highest mountain in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. It is located only sixty miles east of Srinagar, the capital city. Its slightly lower sister peak, Kun, is located two miles north, separated by a high snowy plateau.

 
Nun

Nun (7,135m) is one of the highest peak of Suru valley which is located in Zanskar Himalayas. The massif is located near the Suru Valley which is about 250 km east of Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir. Due to quick access from Leh to base camp and the ease with which a climbing permit can now be obtained. The most frequented climbing area, the Nun-Kun massif comprises of several peaks, chief among them being Nun (7,135m) and Kun (7,077 m). Nun is approachable both from Tangol (70 km. from Kargil) and Gulmatongo (110 km.from kargil). Some attempts are also made from Parkachik (90 km south of kargil) along the parkachik glacier. The base camp can be reached after a day's trek from both Gulmatongo and Tangol.

 
Kun

Kun (7,077m) is one of the highest peak of Suru valley which is located in Zanskar Himalayas. The Kun is located north of Nun and is separated from it by a snowy plateau of about 4 km in length. Kun is accessible from Gulmatongos which is about 110 km. from kargil. Some attempts are also made from Parkachik which is about 90 kms south of kargil along the parkachik glacier. The base camp can be reached after a two day's trek from both Gulmatongus.

Mountaineering

Early exploration of the massif included a visit in 1898 and three visits by Arthur Neve, in 1902, 1904, and 1910. In 1903, Dutch mountaineer Dr. H. Sillem investigated the massif and discovered the high plateau between the peaks; he reached at an elevation of 6,400 m on Nun. In 1906, noted explorer couple Fanny Bullock Workman and her husband William Hunter Workman, claimed an ascent of Pinnacle Peak. They also toured widely through the massif and produced a map; however, argument enclosed the Workmans' claims, and few trigonometrical points were given for the region, so that the map they produced was not usable.

After unsuccessful attempts to climb the mountain in 1934, 1937, and 1946 the first climb of Nun was in 1953 by a French-Swiss-Indian-Sherpa team led by Bernard Pierre and Pierre Vittoz, via the west ridge. The summit pair encompassed Vittoz, a Moravian missionary to the Tibetans and an experienced alpinist, and Claude Kogan, a pioneering female mountaineer. Since then, other routes have been established. The north-west face was first ascended on October 27. and 28., 1976 by seven climbers from a Czech expedition, led by F. Čejka. The first British ascent was made by Steve Berry and friends via the east ridge in 1981 (his father had attempted Nun in 1946).

Italian mountaineer Mario Piacenza made the first ascent of Kun in 1913, via the north-east ridge. Fifty-eight years passed before the second recorded attempt on the peak, which resulted in a successful ascent by an expedition from the Indian Army.

The massif is most suitably accessed from the road connecting Kargil and Leh.The climbing in the region extends from early June to October , the main climbing period being June-August when most of the Himalayas elsewhere remain unreachable due to the monsoon, while the Ladakh Himalayas are unaffected.

 

 


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